Ok, I'm building my computer for gaming and my mom said yes. This is mainly for gaming. So goes to school. But mainly gaming.

LITE-ON 20X DVD±R DVD Burner With 12X DVD-RAM Write Black SATA Model LH-20A1S

COOLER MASTER Elite 330 RC-330-KKN1-GP Black SECC ATX Mid Tower Computer Case+COOLER MASTER eXtreme Power RP-550-PCAR 550W ATX from factor 12V V2.01 Power Supply Combo

Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 ST3250310AS 250GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive

XFX PVT84JUDD3 GeForce 8600GT XXX 256MB 128-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 SLI Supported

ARCTIC COOLING MX-2 Thermal Compound

A-DATA 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model ADQVE1A16K

GIGABYTE GA-EP35-DS3L LGA 775 Intel P35 ATX Intel Motherboard

Intel Pentium E2180 Allendale 2.0GHz LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor Model BX80557E2180

Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium SP1 32-bit English 1pk for System Builders DSP OEI DVD

And my game that Im going to play.
Counter Strike: Source PC Game EA



Sorry this post is so big. I'm in a hurry and I'm just coping it from Newegg. Please check and make any corrections. The total price is $644.73. Please tell me anything else I'm missing. And I don't need a monitor anymore Please don't go over $680 including shipping. And if anything doesn't fit, please change it
And if there's something like it or lower, please replace it in the list.

How much do you pay for the graphics card? Look at a Radeon HD3850 instead--for $100, they offer a good amount of performance--about half that of current HD4850s ($200) but still much more than a 8600GT or its own lower-end cousins.

What would the Hd3850 compare close to in NVIDIA? I don't know much about Radeon...And they said that that XFX 8600GT could play Crysis on mid to low quality, that's good enough for me..All I'm going to play is some Steam source games... And plus that $30 rebate.

I say spend the extra--a 3850 512MB would be MUCH better and good for high quality on lower resolution or medium quality on higher resolution. It should be ~$100 on NewEgg. Just spend the extra--you will get a much better card.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...%2b8600GT%2bXXX
$95 - $30 MIR = $65

versus

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16814161228
$120 - $30 MIR = $90

The HD3850 will have much more than just 50% more performance--making it clearly the better choice for the $25 difference.

Could you give me a link to a card that's about $100? Nope nvm about this sentence.

Edit:So it's much better then the XFX?

Edit Edit: And what about the other parts? They seem good?

They are okay, Your processor however will never run Crysis... I would go for a Core 2 Duo E8400
Although it is way over your budget you would see great results.

It's much better than a GeForce 8600GT. It costs under 50% more after rebate, but it will give several times the performance.

The other parts all seem fine. 2GB DDR2 is fine--you should be able to overclock decently as well. My only other advice would be after-market heatsink, but that can come later.

I'll buy that later

@Opac
Those Core 2 duo's are expensive! And what's the difference with the Core 2 Duo and the duel core?

Edit: And I'm planning to move my hard drive over to the new computer and also my 512MB of RAM. Would that work? I have a WD300 and ddr2 memory.

For these--not much. 1MB cache makes it a bit slower, but you can still overclock pretty well. It's a 10x multiplier so you can just set 300*10 and get 3GHz easy--you should be able to make it there and still have decent stock temperatures. You should be able to do 333*10 as well--that's 3.33GHz. You should have no real problem--just make sure your RAM runs under 400MHz--so you stay in warranty.

EDIT: The drive should work fine--I'd recommend against the RAM though. 2.5GB won't make much of a difference, and it will limit your overclocking as well as stop you from using dual-channel mode.

EDIT 2: I'd suggest you keep the second computer, just in case you need it. It sounds fine for internet & basic games. You never know when that 2nd system will mean your friend can also play.

Ok, I don't really know how to overclock, well I do know mainly, but is there a good tutorial overerclocking?

Edit: Just read your second edit, and I'm taking over the hard drive cause I have most of my Photoshop stuff over here. And I'll be using my same monitor cause it's pretty good and LCD's cost money. So right now I'm saving on a LCD.

Ok. With storage--you could use a flash drive and carry it over. If you have both on and networked, you could copy them over that way as well. If you'll trash the old system or something, then do take the hard drive. My own 320+80 drives are worthwhile--the 320 is new--from around Dec 07. It has Vista HP64 on it and most of my games. The 80 was pulled from my old computer. It has Ubuntu and most of my backups of drivers. If the 80 dies, I just lose Linux and some backups, but the computer still functions. If the 320 dies, If the 320 dies, I lose Vista and my games but I still have some backups and Linux--and the backups are on a FAT32 partition so I can set things up quickly and easily.

As for overclocking--Acid or I (probably I) can walk you through it. The Gigabyte boards are simple. Still, read the motherboard manual. I read my IP35-E's manual once over before buying it.

EDIT: By the way--how much are you paying for the case & power supply? They're a combo? They're not known as good power supplies. Drop the power supply--it's just not high enough quality. Instead I'd suggest a Seasonic SS-500ES for $66 or the SS-400ES for $55.

Never cheap on the power supply. You always want a decent power supply--and Cooler Master doesn't have good power supplies. I usually recommend FPS Fortron or Seasonic. Depending on price--Thermaltake has a few decent units as well.

No, it's not that kind of combo where the PSU is already in the case. It's like the special savings combo. Go to Newegg and then you go to the case or the PSU I have. Then you will find a match in the section under the preview. And it'll say it last to 6/30. That's why I need the computer so fast. Cause it saves money.

Even if it saves money--one bad power supply can do more damage, financially, than sticking with a good one. One place that should never be skimped on is definitely power supplies. That, and this should come out to be about the same price. Look at the Seasonic 400-watt unit. 400W from a quality unit will be more than enough power for your system. A few bucks more for a more-reliable and more-efficient unit.

So the one I have right now isn't good?

It should work, but it's not one I would personally trust. In that way, it's not a good unit. As I said before--I generally recommend FPS Fortron or Seasonic.

Are we talking about PSU's? A good one, is the Antec Truepower series.

~5ilence

On that $55 one, it has 2 SATA ports, but I need 3 cause of my Hard drive from this computer. And Bob-sama, I just read most of the comments on the PSU. And they most say that they might and might not give the rebate and it's loud.

Most (90+%) people who review on NewEgg don't know what they're talking about. The Seasonic is plenty quiet, and while it has only two SATA ports, you can make use of a cheap molex. Still MUCH more reliable than the CoolerMaster. That, and the Seasonic is >80% efficient--which will save you or your household money in the longer term.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16812119238

Just look at the 400W unit--again here. No bad reviews on either Seasonic really (other than the occasional DOA rant).

I've personally used the Antec Truepower series, and every computer that needs a new PSU at work, we put one into, so I can vouch for it?

~5ilence

Sorry if I got you confused, but I was talking about the CoolerMaster PSU. And what does that link you gave me for? Is it like to make a SATA cable into 2 SATA cables?

Nah, it's just about the Antec Truepower series. A review. I'll find the actual one I use.

My PSU

~5ilence

EDIT: Added link.

Woah, that's to expensive for me..I'm on a very small budget..

Seasonic is the source for most Antec power supplies. Most of these Antec power supplies and many Seasonic power supplies are all the same--though often a few components are switched out or otherwise upgraded. Anyways--I'd personally say Seasonic since they DO make such high-quality units, and that you should deal direct with the manufacturer if possible. With the prices, I'd say just adapter plus the Seasonic--if you would prefer no adapter yes the Antec earthwatts EA500 would work, but it IS $5 more.

Would the adapter add another SATA cable? And I like the PSU, but it's just to expensive for me. Sorry And Bob-sama, if you give me 5 good things about that PSU, then I'll take it I just need to know if its good and reliable.


IMPORTANT EDIT!
With that graphics card you suggested me Bob-sama, What does it compare to in NVIDIA? I need to know this cause when I buy games, I have to see the specs to see if it works.

1) High-quality manufacturer and branding, known for reliability and quality
2) Enough wattage for what you want to do with it
3) Priced competitively
4) Nearly silent
5) 3-year warranty from Seasonic
6) Same internals as many higher-end power supplies, and certified and setup to give constant 400W
7) 80 PLUS certified--meaning that load efficiency is above 80%

Yes the adapter would add another SATA connector--two in fact--if you decide to grab another SATA optical drive or another SATA hard drive.

As for the graphics card--the HD3850 performs very well compared to the 8600GT. As in--about the same as an 8800GS or 9600GSO.

Wow, for such a low price.. for that graphics card

And about that PSU, it's in my cart now So, anything else I need to change to make better?

2nd question
It says taht for that Radeon video card, it takes up 2 PCI-Express x16 and I only have 1 of those. So my question is, would that video fit my motherboard?

IIRC, it's only one slot taken and one slot space taken. I have a HD3850 from Diamond (an original ref-board) which had the same single-slot cooler. They're great cards. Everything else looks good for the price.

So everything fits?

Yes everything fits. Just don't freak out doing cable management.

1) Open everything up, put on antistatic locations (glass/wooden desks, anti-static bags)
2) Setup standoffs, place power supply in case
3) Take motherboard, put in processor, cooler, and RAM while still outside of case
4) Place board into case, attached front-panel stuff, power/restart switches, LEDs, screw board onto the standoffs
5) Put in all hard drives and optical drives, screw those in as well
6) Put in graphics card
7) Route all power to motherboard first and foremost--namely 24-pin ATX and then 4-pin ATX or 8-pin EPS and occasional 4-pin molex
8) Route power to graphics card, if necessary
9) Route connections to all drives
10) Route power to all drives and ensure all fans plugged in
11) Turn on, install OS, install drivers, install everything else!

Ok, thanks for your help Now time to wait for my mom to come back and ask for her to pay

I would screw in the power supply near the end of the build because it can get in the way while putting the rest of the computer together.

I've found exactly the opposite during most builds or rebuilds where the power supply is at the top. Prior, I've occasionally had trouble when you have to under 3/4 of the build to put a power supply in, as the RAM slots are too high to allow for easy installation. When the power supply is at the bottom, then yes that does work--putting it in later, as you have nothing taller than a centimeter in the way and you can remove all expansion cards more easily.

EDIT: IT would be easier to pop out the slot covers while the case is still empty. It gives you more space to work in. Most external bays will have the drive slid in through the bay, not from inside the case. Also I'd say avoid putting the hard drives in until after you've got the board in there--I've had some cases where it gets tougher to put the board in with the drive in.

I've heard that that case's edge's are very sharp..And someone cut their hand and needed stitches. So is their a way to prevent that? Sounds pretty dangerous.

Be careful? I don't know--don't stick your hand where it doesn't belong. I've heard nothing but good about the CM690, except for having a plastic front panel. Remember cases are usually steel or aluminum--if you try hard enough you can easily cut yourself.